Siem Reap and Angkor Wat

Up there at the top of my bucket list with a safari in Africa, Victoria Falls, Iguazu Falls and Machu Picchu was Angkor Wag. The tall, imposing towers and mysterious temples called to me from photographs and travel articles. So after our short stop in Phnom Penh we flew to Siem Reap. This town immediately had a more calm and relaxing feel that Phnom Penh, as we trundled along in our tuk-tuk to our little villa. Nearby the Old Town but across the river and far enough from the all-night clubs, we were in the perfect place.

Our first day was a slated rest day. We wanted to explore the town a bit, and I wanted a massage. Unlike the $100 an hour rates in the US, I paid the 'high' rate of $25 for 90 minutes at a reputable spa for a deep tissue massage, manicure, and pedicure. The workers were trained well and spoke perfect English. I was very impressed! I returned to Paul so we could get lunch and see a bit more. 

The Old Town is composed of a block of marketplace selling everything a tourist (and local) could want. From jewelry and clothing to food and electronics, this was the place to be. The next street down, also known as Pub Street, was stuffed full of restaurants and bars and people who wanted to give us tuk-tuk rides. We relaxed in one restaurant, enjoying their $2 pitchers, free wifi, and catching up on our journals. Even though we have nothing to do except sightsee, I feel as if I am forever behind in my blog, postcard writing, journaling, sketching, emails and the like. No wonder when I'm actually working that I feel even worse. 

Inside the marketplace was everything from clothes to shoes to jewelry to fish!

In the late afternoon we got a message from our old flatemate and wonderful friend Andrew. He was in Siem Reap as well with his girlfriend Ana! We made plans to catch up, Paul and I immensely excited to see a friendly face. It had been years since we had seen Andrew, but it felt like seconds as we caught each other up on our lives until now. They were exhausted from a long day visiting the temples and we had a sunrise wake up the next day, so we called it an early night.

The next morning in the pitch black, our alarms started going off - it was 4:30am and we were being picked up soon. As much as I love sunrises, I just cannot get used to waking up so early. With bleary eyes and tired heads we climbed into our nice leather, air conditioned car and were driven to buy tickets. The woman at the counter wouldn't accept my $100 bill because the face was a bit creased (are you kidding me!) so our guide paid and we promised to repay him. 

Finally we arrived at the place with the sunrise, but we had to walk across a bridge and then through huge puddles to the edge of the water. Our guide had a small light but we couldn't see anything except inky black and a spot of light where the flashlight was pointed. Oh, did I mention it was pouring rain? Absolutely pounding down, as we huddled under our umbrellas and waited, and waited and waited. Finally, about 45 minutes after we arrived, the sky began to lighten and turn from gray, to light purple, to light pink, then gray again. 

A view back over the complex after sunrise while we waited in the rain for our car.

The rain continued on as we shuffled back to the car, then our hotel, for breakfast and a nap. Before we new it, it was time to head out again. Luckily, the rain had abated a bit so we didn't need our umbrellas.

The tour started at one of the main complexes known as Angkor Thom, and specifically at the Bayon Temple. Gigantic, moss and lichen covered faces stare down at you, smiling as if they are holding in a secret. 

We learned that the Angkor Wat entire complex used to be the capital of Khmer Empire, before it fell in the 1500s. People were left behind to watch over it, but they didn't do a great job. The walls in this temple were carved intricately and told stories of demons and warriors fighting. We climbed incredibly steep stairs to the top of one complex, and then another. The view from the top was beautiful, but we were dripping in sweat due to the already rising temperatures and oppressive humidity. 

Look at these crazy steps!

We walked across to an elephant terrace where entertainment for royalty took place, and rough to more temples, the foundations of the old palace, the concubines' and kings' swimming pools, and then back to our car. 

Our guide took us to a small temple that I honestly don't remember the name of (their are tons of tiny, abandoned temples like this). We were the only ones there and I felt like Indiana Jones as I climbed over moss covered boulders and stones and wound my way through the ruins. It was calm and quiet and peaceful and I could have stayed there all day. 

Our favorite little small, forgotten temple.

One more stop was slated for before lunch, and we were ushered out of the car at a small path next to a large wall. Apparently we would be walking to the famous 'Tomb Raider' temple. A four-faced gate looked up in front of us, strangler trees gripping the sculptures and gate, slowly crushing them. Our guide informed up that this is the gate Angelina Jolie drove through in the film. I made a mental note to watch this later. 

Following our guide, we trekked through a narrow path, stepping over mouse-sized ants (okay, a slight exaggeration), pushing back branches and vines, and feeling like real explorers. 

 

Then, very abruptly. We arrived at the famous sight. Stuffed full of tourists and loud as ever, we tried to make a less-than-usual path around the temple, stopping to take in more gigantic strangler trees and snap a few pictures. After scrambling over rocks and patches of mud, we made it around to the inside of the temple. Now I REALLY felt like Indiana Jones! Vines and roots crept down the temples and walls, reclaiming what had once been theirs. More moss and lichen, bright green in patches, also covered most of the rock. If their hadn't been so many tourists, we would have sat there for a long time staring. 

Next we were led into a small temple, where our guide demonstrated that no echoes came from speaking or clapping, but if you stood in once special pocket in the wall and pounded your chest, this would cause an echo. Pretty cool, right? Boom, boom, boom, Paul and I took turns thumping our chests, hearing the deep echo through the small space. Winding our way through other smaller temples, famous trees and walls, we made it out for lunch. An overpriced, but air conditioned restaurant awaited us with its delicious Khmer cuisine. 

Once lunch was over we were headed to then actual Angkor Wat complex. The walk there we passed an old, rust-colored gatehouse, and then there they were, those famous Angkor towers. Impressive from the outside and almost more impressive from the inside. The walls were covered in even more murals, describing all kinds of things from their religion to stories. All the doors and windows were decorated as well, and there was always something to look at. We explored the golden Buddhas and then the higher parts of the temple that used to be filled with deep pools of water. More steep stairs up and down and my legs were shaking by the end. 

The gatehouse was so colorful!

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A beautiful butterfly right outside the main complex.

Engravings everywhere, even doorjams

 

 

This is the original spot we watched the sunset from, and thought we'd take a daylight picture.

The last part of our trip ended with a climb up a small hill to see the sunset. We got a chance to talk with our guide about Cambodia's history, people, and how life in general was there. It turns out he used to be a teacher, but the stress was too high and the pay too low. His first year when he was the main teacher, but still deemed 'in training', he had no salary but was paid in rice. He had to sleep in the school because he couldn't afford somewhere to live. He had nearly 100 students but no supplies, and even after his first year when he did get paid, it wasn't enough. What was the point, he thought, when the children couldn't learn and the teachers were barely getting by? So now he is a tour guide, which make much better money, although the hours can be brutal. He also told us about how (he believes) many Cambodians think that Pol Pot was just a scape goat, and that the real enemy are the Vietnamese that are trying to take over Cambodia. He explained that it was the Vietnamese who pulled the strings during the Khmer Rouge, and that most people think of Pol Pot as a hero. After visiting the Killing Fields and S-21, both Paul and I were hesitant to speak. We told him what we had learned and asked if there had been research to show any of these things he was telling us. He said yes, but that the Vietnamese hid it from the world, including and especially the people of Cambodia. This hour long chat reminded Paul and I that there is no such thing as the 'true' story, and in some cases you'll never know the real truth. We still don't know who to believe, but are reminded once again to learn more about Cambodia's past as soon as we can. 

The sunset fizzled out with a slightly gray sky and no brilliant colors. With exhausted feet we trudged back down the hill to the car, the our hotel for a rest and a shower before meeting up with Andrew one last time. 

Our 'sunset'. At least the view was nice and conversation interesting.

One of the things I really noticed about Angkor Wat compared to some of the other World Heritage sights we have visited is that it doesn't seem as protected or cared for as others. Many parts of the temples they are still reconstructing, but many more they just let the hordes of tourists clamber over, touch, and ultimately destroy the history that is there. I felt like I was staggering through a museum, knocking over one precious artifact after another even though I was as careful as could be not to touch or disturb anything - you still had to walk and it was often right over the old stones and statues. 

Overall, despite the extreme heat and humidity and far too many loud tourists, Angkor Wat was a beautiful place to visit. We learned a lot of Khmer history and enjoyed feeling a bit like explorers. As for Cambodia in general, I loved the food, prices, massages, and helpful people. It was another great adventure finished and time to start the next one - Thailand!